DESCRIPTION: B. vulgaris is the botanical name for two varieties of vegetables. The Beet and Swiss Chard, also known as Leaf Beet or Spinach Beet. Both of these biennials are grown as annuals. The Beet belongs to a group of plants, which were selected from an ancient European species. This group includes Sugar Beets, grown for sugar extraction and mangel-wurzels, grown for livestock feed. Garden Beets are mainly grown for their edible, swollen roots, which come in a wide range of shapes and colors including cylindrical and long, nearly round, oblong, or top-shaped and they may be dark red, dark purple-red, yellow, or white. The Beet's foliage may also be eaten and varieties have been developed that suit both purposes. Swiss Chard is a heat-resistant potherb for the summer and autumn. Some varieties have greenish-white or pretty red foliage, though the ornamental kinds aren't as tasty. This plant has deep roots and will come back even when heavily cut. The leaves of Chard are ordinarily eaten cooked. During mid-summer, Beets go out of season over much of the country and Chard is still available.
POTTING: Beets need deep, friable soil that is free from lumps and fresh manure in a position in full sun. It is good to grow Beets in soil that was dug deeply and fertilized the previous spring for Beans, Peas or other deep-rooting crop. Before sowing, mix in a dressing of complete fertilizer. Though it is better to direct-seed Beets, they may be transplanted when they are very young, but handle them very carefully. Thin extra plants when they are large enough to eat as greens. Beginning when the seedlings are to be thinned, the entire plants are pulled up and used for greens and baby beets. In cool climates, spring sown Beets can remain in the ground through summer without losing much quality. In warm climates, the roots will deteriorate in hot soil. Old, large roots may be fibrous. Stringiness and white zoning in younger Beets are usually due to poor seed breeding. To harvest all-leaf Beets, shear off the whole plant about 3 inches above the soil surface and snap off older leaves. If stems are stringy, strip off leaf blades and throw out the stems. Chard is planted as Beets are. In areas with mild winters, plants will live to provide autumn and winter greens, but will almost always bolt to seed late the following spring. Pull out the plants and start over. Chard provides more per square foot than most other vegetables and with less care. Snap off the outer stems, leaving the central stems to grow. When cutting a lot for freezing, cut off the top growth 3 to 4 inches above the soil line. Plants will grow back if fed and watered immediately.
PROPAGATION: Beets don't grow well in hot, dry weather and are only slightly frost-resistant. Early sowings sometimes bolt to seed prematurely. So, don't plant Beets until 2 to 3 weeks before the average spring frost free date. Before planting, wash the seeds in water with a mild detergent, then rinse well and dry. For the best yield, sow directly where they are to grow, 2 to 4 inches apart in wide bands and grow in full sun. In warm climates, you can sow a second crop in late summer. Provide shade to aid in germination and ensure the survival of early seedlings. Cover direct seeded Beets with ΒΌ- to Β½-inch of sand or sifted compost. They will sprout in 2 to 3 weeks. Chard seeds are planted as you Beets.
VARIETIES: Named varieties of the Beet - Detroit Park Red; Pacemaker II, Sweetheart, Red Ace, Lutz Green Leaf, Burpee's Golden, Albina Veraduna, Perpetual Spinach (an all leaf variety).
Chard - Green varieties with wide white leaf stems, shingled at the base like celery are often better to eat than older, narrow-stemmed varieties, such as Lucullus. Ornamental Chards aren't very good to eat. Fordhook Giant and Swiss Chard of Geneva have wide, glistening white petioles. Vulcan and Ruby Chard have decorative red stems and green leaves.
Burpee's Red Ball Beet
Cylindra Beet
Burpee's Golden Beet
Swiss Chard Bright Lights
Fordhook Giant